12/7/2023 0 Comments Itc avant gardeAs Bottura flew into New York for the U.N. Gilmore says the book, which features recipes for seasonal frittatas and the hotel’s spin on tiramisu, is “really about sharing how much Massimo and I love Emilia-Romagna and want people to come visit."īottura and Gilmore often take a divide-and-conquer approach to juggling their many projects. The book, slated to be published in early December in the U.S., is devoted to Casa Maria Luigia, Bottura and Gilmore’s 4-year-old art-filled hotel outside Modena, Italy. Its floral-print wallpaper swaddles a lounge where Bottura’s publisher, Phaidon, has donated a library of food and art books.Īn advance copy of his latest tome, “Slow Food, Fast Cars," written by Bottura and Gilmore, sits on a table in the lounge. Gucci fabric covers the dining room chairs. The organization’s mission inspired executives at Gucci-Bottura’s partner in his Gucci Osteria restaurants in Beverly Hills, Florence, Tokyo and Seoul-to support the Harlem project with funds and design input. “It’s fighting food waste, involving chefs, creating an amazing space that renews the whole community through beauty," Bottura says. Working with local partners as it spread to new cities worldwide, the organization has enlisted an ever-widening network of artists, designers and volunteer chefs, transforming neglected spaces into soup kitchens with waiter service and artfully plated fresh food. with the help of a Rockefeller Foundation grant, started with a simple idea in a single space-a former theater attached to a church in Milan-to bring a bit of beauty to underserved communities with the sort of art, design and cooking generally reserved for affluent restaurant patrons. (The original hangs in the first Refettorio, in Milan.)įood for Soul, which began expanding into the U.S. Bottura, fanatical about contemporary art, added two more big pieces to the space: a painting of gospel singers by Tyler Ballon, purchased last year from dealer Jeffrey Deitch, and a new edition of Carlo Benvenuto’s “Metaphysical Bread," an oversize photo of a round loaf on a bare table. On the far wall of the dining room hangs an enormous photo donated by French artist JR, an overhead shot of the transnational picnic table he installed across the U.S.-Mexico border in 2017. “What you have to do is take the different shapes, put them together like my grandmother was doing at the end of the week-it’s called pasta mista-with everything you have in the refrigerator." “Tomorrow, pasta!" booms Bottura, eyeing a donation of packaged pasta from Eataly, the Italian food purveyor. Tonight’s menu, served with cloth napkins and flower-filled vases, includes a caramelized onion tart with pecorino cheese fonduta and herb-roasted chicken on butternut squash purée. In the newly installed professional kitchen, volunteers are working feverishly, transforming surplus food from Baldor-one of the city’s biggest restaurant-supply companies-into square meals for some of the neighborhood’s most at-risk residents. “I get emotional," he says, visiting the finished space for the first time in September. Refettorio Harlem is the 12th project globally from Food for Soul, the charitable organization Bottura launched with his American-born wife, Lara Gilmore, after opening their first soup kitchen in 2015. After three years of fundraising shortfalls and pandemic delays, the once-dingy basement of this historic church, completed in 1926, has been transformed into a gleaming soup kitchen.
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